Felling cut straight from behind

If you do not have much experience of felling trees this is the easiest method to use. Saw with a pulling chain (bottom of the bar) if you are inexperienced, this is a bit easier because the saw is not pushed against you. Otherwise it is quicker to saw with a pushing chain because you can remain in the same position as you were for the directional notch. It is very important that the felling cut is sawn parallel to the directional notch so that the hinge is equally thick.

For small trees, it is difficult to use a breaking bar or felling wedge. If the tree leans a little, the guide bar will pinch, but using your hand against the trunk or a pole with spikes you can normally push the tree forwards. If you have a 4–5 metres long pole with spikes, you will be able to push forward rather tail-heavy trees by hand. You can also use this method on thick trees if the tree does not lean backwards or there are adverse winds. If there is a risk that the tree will fall backwards and is too heavy to be pushed forwards, you should use the felling tools. Saw until you can fit a wedge or breaking bar in the saw cut. When you start to reach the final thickness of the hinge, be careful to ensure the hinge has an even thickness.

For trees that lean heavily forwards, the risk of damage from the wood splitting increases if you saw the felling cut from behind. If possible make a bore and saw backwards for trees such as these.